Gold, Mist and Waterfalls – Autumn Hiking in the Scottish Highlands

Gold, Mist and Waterfalls: Autumn Hiking in the Scottish Highlands – Highland Guiding
Loch Ness in autumn light, Great Glen, Scottish Highlands

Highland Guiding  ·  The Great Glen  ·  Autumn

Gold, Mist and Waterfalls Autumn Hiking in the
Scottish Highlands

8 min read
David Russell, Head Guide, Highland Guiding

David Russell

Founder and Head Guide, Highland Guiding

I've been a hiking guide here in the Scottish Highlands for fifteen years. Over those many guiding seasons I've led hundreds of tours and made many joyful memories with people across the length and breadth of the Highlands. But every single year, there's a time I look forward to the most, and a part of Scotland I love to return to - the Great Glen in autumn. October in particular is when the Highlands are at their most dramatic, and in my view the finest time of year for walking in Scotland.

The place

The Great Glen

The Great Glen is the huge geological fault line that draws a straight slash through the Highlands, from Fort William in the south to Inverness in the north. Loch Ness, the most famous loch in Scotland, lies in the Great Glen and draws people from around the world at all times of year. For centuries more, it's been a primary transit route from one side of Scotland to the other. Millions come, but most either pass through or only stay for a brief look, and so they miss the true magic that can be found here.

The east side of Loch Ness is especially stunning, with rugged hills, beautiful forests and some truly spectacular waterfalls. Adjacent to the Great Glen itself are some of the most beautiful glens and lochs to be found in the Highlands, most of them relatively unknown and delightfully quiet. The unique mix of ancient woodlands, huge waterfalls, and winding trails makes this one of the most wonderful areas to visit at our most glorious time of year - the autumn.

The season

The Highlands in Autumn

Autumn is the season most Highlanders name as their favourite, and I certainly include myself in that. I love to see the change of colours in the landscape - each kind of tree has its own particular beauty. The vivid yellows of the birch trees mixed with the emerald green of the pines of the Caledonian forest. The royal golden tones of oak in Glen Tarff, and the rusty reds of the larches beside the Falls of Foyers. The magnificent bronze tones of the mountains of Glen Affric and Arkaig as the summer grasses fade. The Scottish Highlands autumn colours peak somewhere between late September and early November depending on the year, and October in the Great Glen tends to hit the sweet spot. Late blooming wildflowers like sheep-bit add a dash of brilliant colour along the trail.

Autumn weather is delightful - an ever-changing mix of everything. It rains, but then the clouds break across the hills like white smoke. It's sunny, but with deliciously crisp mornings filled with mist. The weather can be wild, or it can be mild, and to those of us who love this place it's all wonderful.

Heading out this autumn?

Make sure you're prepared for the hill. Our Highland walking kit list covers everything you need for a day in the Scottish hills in any season.

View the Kit List

I also find the shortening days to be the perfect length. It's light around 8am and dark around 6pm - ideal to spend the day hiking in the glens and then watch the sun go down as you enjoy dinner together. If luck is on your side, you may even catch a glimpse of the northern lights once the sun is well down.

Autumn birch trees at Loch Arkaig, Scottish Highlands

Loch Arkaig  ·  Scottish Highlands

Another reason I enjoy guiding at this time of year is because the craziness of summer has calmed down a lot. There are fewer people around, meaning quieter trails, more relaxed driving, and a chill vibe over dinner. The people that travel here at this time of year, in my experience, really want to connect deeply with the beauty of the Highlands - to enjoy its nature and discover the hidden connections between things. That's exactly the type of person I love to guide for.

It's also a very busy time for wildlife, which makes it one of the best seasons for spotting and encountering the most extraordinary creatures. Wild geese winging their way south in flying Vs, otters feeding along the coast, hibernators busily grabbing all the nuts and berries they can find before winter arrives. One of the real highlights of the season are the red deer, who come down from the hills for the annual rut. They can be seen much more easily at lower level, and the sound of the stags bellowing at each other in the dark is incredibly atmospheric.

Every time I've led a tour at this time of year in the Great Glen it's been one of the highlights of my year, and every group I've had the pleasure of leading have been another bunch of new pals to share great adventures with. If you've been wondering about the best time to visit the Scottish Highlands, the answer for walkers is almost always autumn.

Red deer stag during the autumn rut, Scottish Highlands

Red deer during the autumn rut  ·  Scottish Highlands

The rain only makes the waterfalls more impressive. If the weather is a bit colder, the chance of early snow gracing the hilltops above the golden foliage is truly stunning.

The walks

Walks for Autumn Lovers
in the Great Glen

These are the walks I keep coming back to, and I designed our Loch Ness and the Great Glen tour around them. If you want to experience all of this in one trip, in the company of a small group and a guide who knows every bend in the trail, that's exactly what this tour offers. But first, let me tell you what you'd be walking into, and share a guide's perspective on what makes them so special.

Fort William

Glen Nevis and Steall Falls

Glen Nevis in autumn, Fort William

Glen Nevis  ·  Fort William

Glen Nevis is a truly stunning glen. The sides of the glen are astonishingly steep and rugged, dotted with crags and cliffs. Among the outcrops stand gorgeous pine and birch woods. There's a reason why this glen has been featured in so many films from Braveheart to Harry Potter - it's classic Highland grandeur on every side.

There are a number of hikes that can be done in Glen Nevis with options to suit every ability, which makes it a really flexible location. One of the glen's most magical sights lies hidden at the top of the glen - the Nevis gorge and Steall Falls. It's not a very long hike to reach, but the trail is rocky and winding, offering constant interest as it passes through the remarkable rock formations of the gorge where the river Nevis has carved down through the ancient stone. Just when it seems deepest and most rugged you suddenly emerge into the wide expanse of grassland at the Steall meadows, and are greeted by the sight beyond.

Steall Falls in autumn, Glen Nevis

Steall Falls  ·  Glen Nevis

Ahead of you in the distance a foaming white cascade of water pours down half the mountainside - the waters of An Steall Ban. It's one of the highest waterfalls in Scotland, and probably the most beautiful. It's many years since I first saw it myself, but I've never grown bored of it. When the birches lining the side of the hill are gold in autumn, it's one of Scotland's natural wonders.


East Loch Ness

Falls of Foyers

Woodland walk above the Falls of Foyers, Loch Ness

Falls of Foyers  ·  East Loch Ness

I love this walk beside Loch Ness, because it's the perfect example of how Scotland offers wonders hidden in plain sight. Since most people never travel along the east side of Loch Ness, they never get to discover what's there.

This is a really good loop walk, and the most striking thing to me is always the variety of woodland you pass through. On the course of the walk you hike on broad trails through moody conifer forest, gravel tracks that wind through golden birch woods, earthy paths twisting down through magnificent mixed Caledonian forest, and finally chestnut and hazel woods lining the stony shores of Loch Ness itself. With the autumn colours, it's a constantly changing mix of colour and scenery as you pass from one habitat to the next. By the shore of the loch, we often stop to enjoy the views, and here I love to tell people the legends and stories of how Loch Ness got its name.

The Falls of Foyers plunging into the gorge above Loch Ness

Falls of Foyers  ·  Loch Ness

The big highlight is the Falls of Foyers, where the river plunges an enormous height into a wide and deep gorge, where larches and pines grow straight out of the rock walls and drench them with colour. Looking downstream you see distant hills rising above the hidden Loch Ness. Somehow the height of the falls never quite comes across in a photo, but to stand and look down at it makes the imagination giddy. A far better way to see Loch Ness than most people ever find.


Cannich

Glen Affric

Loch Affric and the ancient Caledonian forest in autumn

Glen Affric  ·  Cannich

Like Glen Nevis, Glen Affric is often named as one of Scotland's finest glens thanks to its combination of dramatic mountains and beautiful native woodlands. Even the drive into the glen often has my guests exclaiming at the beauty of the wooded lochside and hills.

There are many great routes to choose from in Glen Affric, and often we do a mix of several shorter walks to see different parts of the glen. But my personal favourite is the loop around Loch Affric itself - a longer walk that takes about six or seven hours.

The south side of the loch is on a wide easy track, while the more interesting walking is on the north side. There are a few tricky bits to negotiate your way past bogs and a minor river crossing, but it's great seeing people rise to the challenge and bask in the beauty of the place. The views, at every stage of the day, are simply astounding. There's a real sense of wilderness and the power of nature as you walk in and out of patches of ancient Caledonian forest, surrounded by wild rocky corries and peaks that dance in and out of the silvery rain showers.

Walking the north shore of Loch Affric in Glen Affric

North shore, Loch Affric  ·  Glen Affric

Feet and body may ache by the end of the day, but there's a distinct pleasure in having earned that tiredness and filled the memory with an unforgettable day of Highland beauty.

Best of all about autumn in the Highlands, of course, is that slightly indescribable autumn feeling. The sense of the landscape taking a last breath before winter; of unhurried stillness on a misty morning; cosy drinks after a chilly hilltop walk; mirror-still reflections of sunlit woods. It truly is what living is all about.

All images by David Russell

Your questions answered

Autumn Hiking in Scotland: FAQ

Walking together in the Great Glen in autumn

Loch Ness and the Great Glen  ·  Small Group Tour

Join Us in the Great Glen this Autumn

A small group walking tour through the woodlands, waterfalls and wild glens of the Great Glen. Expert guiding, all meals included, and all three of these walks on the itinerary.

View the Tour

From £995 per person

David Russell, Head Guide, Highland Guiding

About the author

David Russell

Founder and Head Guide, Highland Guiding

David has guided walking tours across the Scottish Highlands for fifteen years. Based in Aviemore in the Cairngorms National Park, he leads small group and private trips throughout the year, with a particular fondness for the Great Glen in October.